Hebridean light. Isle of Lewis.

In this article I want to show the beauty of the Hebridean winter light.

Arriving at Stornoway Airport this time feels like coming home. Today is winter solstice, December 21 2022. Sunrise is at 9.30 a.m., and after six hours it's getting dark again. During the day the Sun is low on the horizon. I love the unique light of the Nordic winters; I could live here for the rest of my life, I am sure.

Stornoways Christmas lights send their colorful light into the streets. The Stornoway Smokehouse is calling - offering delicious smoked fish.

Stornoway Smokehouse

The Standing Stones of Callanish

There is something mystical about standing all alone in the heart of the circles of the Standing Stones of Callanish. Why on Earth did they use the most heavy material they could find to build the site? My question may be a little naive, but so far I could not find any answer, except the fact of course, that the Standing Stones of Callanish were built in the Neolithic period.

It may sound strange, but I firmly believe that just like everything else on earth, a stone has a soul and is alive. Now imagine all the stories the standing stones could tell us! How could we communicate with a Menhir?

If you are interested in more details about the Standing Stones of Callanish I could highly recommend Gerald Pontings book «Callanish and other megalithic sites of the outer Hebrides».

Standing Stones of Callanish

Standing Stones of Callanish. Right: Hi-Contrast B&W (sooc).

Butt of Lewis

In fact I didn't want to photograph the Butt of Lewis Lighthouse primarily, instead I was much more interested in the late afternoon light «at the end of the world» in general.

Moments after the heavy rain, glistening sunbeams broke through the dark clouds, the last drops of water still sparkling in the air.

After a few moments, the magical light disappeared and the rain returned.

Butt of Lewis, to south-west

Late afternoon light near Eoropie Beach and Ness Cemetery

At first I wasn't sure about the ethics of photographing the Ness Cemetery; it's both impressive and depressing, especially in the sad twilight of the late afternoon. How many graves could there be? R.I.P. all kind souls.

Ness Cemetery

Lewis Trilogy by Peter May

The dark scenes around Ness Cemetery and Port of Ness remind me of Peter Mays Lewis' trilogy consisting of «The Blackhouse», «The Lewis Man» and «The Chessmen».




Watch the trailer to «The Lewis Man» on YouTube.




Back at Tigh Phadruig, our home for the next ten days. Off the lights! Maybe there will be clear skies tonight?

Tigh Phadruig parking

Eternal stars

I had always heard about the outstanding starry nights on the Outer Hebrides - if you are in a dark place with no light pollution and a clear sky. But I'd never expected the sky to be so full of stars, so bright and sparkling - the brilliance of colour and hue!

I remember Vincent van Goghs letter to his sister Wilhelmina van Gogh:

Tigh Phadruig, South Shawbost

Slanted

Our flight back from Stornoway to Edinburgh was delayed due to «technical issues», so there was plenty of time to reflect on all the impressions and experiences of the last few days on the Isle of Lewis. Walking around outside in the fresh air while I waited, I spotted this bus stop in the car park at Stornoway Airport, leaning slightly - or was the rest of the world leaning in the Hebridean breeze?

I will be back, for sure.

Bus stop, Stornoway Airport